1968 289, 302 +PS +AC Autolite Alternator C6AF-10300-F (before June 1968)

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Description: 289, 302 +PS +AC Ford Mercury Alternator
Year: 1968 (build before June 1968)
Model: Mustang, Cougar, Shelby GT350, Ford, Mercury
Production date specific: YES, all production before June 1968
Engineering #: C6AF-10300-F
Rear housing type: Teardrop
Output specified on ink stamp: 55 Amps
Actual output: 55 Amps
Fan: 13 blade yellow zinc finish (sold separately)
Pulley: Single sheave (sold separately)
Date Codes: 3 (please indicate your cars production date when ordering)
Warranty: 1 Years (repair or replace)
Returns: 365 Days* 

Accuracy Rating: 9.5
Best Repro Available: YES

Jack's Comments:

Our concours correct 1968 Autolite alternators are built with 100% new components manufactured to our specifications to be reliable and look factory original.  We faithfully reproduced the unique front and rear housings from original Ford engineering drawings, 28 lamination yellow/amber varnished 55 amp stator and we even apply date codes that correspond with your cars production date.  Our alternators also come with all the concours correct hardware you need to install the wire harness and fan/pulley.

Concours Notes: 
1) Alternators produced before June 1968 had the teardrop style rear housing. If your car has a production date before June 1968 this is the correct alternator for your car.
2) Sometime around the end of May 1968 Autolite alternators had this teardrop style rear housing. Depending on each assembly plant inventory turn you could see this teardrop rear housing in production cars until late June 1968. 
3) All alternators had two red Autolite ink stamps on the rear housing.  The red ink color identifies this as a 55 amp alternator.
4) The correct cooling fan has 13 blades and it had a yellow zinc plating (also known as zinc dichromate).
5) The correct pulley for this alternator is a single sheave pulley with a yellow zinc plating (also known as zinc dichromate).
6) The wire harness terminals and the fan/pulley hardware had a yellow zinc finish.
7) The tiny dob of light brown sealer seen on the rear housing between the rear bearing hub and the FLD terminal was used to seal a small hole that allowed a pin to be inserted to hold the brushes in place during assembly.

Do you have more concours details you would like to share?  Pictures?  We don't know everything so please send us an email and we will post your findings and give you the credit.

Questions & Answers:

Q: How do you decide what date codes are right for my car?
When you specify your cars production date we take a look at our vintage calendars and select a day one to one and a half months before your car was built.  If you would like to specify a date you want your alternator stamped with just let us know in the Special Instructions: box.  Note: The stator was manufactured before the alternator itself so the stator inspection date is typically 7-20 days prior to the alternators two final inspection dates. 

I don't have a door tag on my car, what should I do?
A: If you don't have a door tag to get your cars build date you can calculate an approximate production date by locating date codes on your engine, rear axle or sheet metal parts.  You can then enter the dates you found in the Special Instructions: box before adding your alternator to your shopping cart.  We will use the date(s) you provide us to calculate a appropriate production date for your alternator.  If you don't have any build date information or just don't care please choose that you want a generic date code.

Q: Where are the date codes located on the alternator?
A: Month, day, year stamp on the rear housing. Month, day and shift on stator. Shift, month, day, last digit of year on the side of the rear housing.

Q I'm running a mechanical voltage regulator.  Will this alternator burn up my regulator like the last alternator I purchased at my local Auto parts store?
A: You won't need to buy another voltage regulator. We build our alternators with components that are compatible with vintage mechanical or the new solid state voltage regulators just for this reason.  Note: Voltage regulators are the most common reason your battery is not charging or over charging.  We suggest you install a new (solid state preferred) voltage regulator with your new alternator just to be safe.

Still have questions?  Give us a call at 510-903-1059


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