Description: D0ZF-10300-A Autolite Alternator
Engine: BOSS 302
Power Steering: With or without
Air Conditioning: No
Model: Mustang, Cougar
Production date specific: All 1970 production
Engineering #: D0ZF-10300-A
Rear housing type: Teardrop AUTOLITE
Output specified on ink stamp: 55 Amps
Actual output: 55 Amps
Fan: 13 blade before 11/17/69, 10 blade after 11/17/69 (sold separately)
Pulley: Single sheave 3.87" C5AF-10A352-H (sold separately)
Date Codes: 3 (Indicate your cars production date when ordering)
Warranty: 1 Year
Accuracy Rating: 9.5
Best Repro Available: YES
Our concours correct 1970 die stamped Autolite alternators are built with 100% new components manufactured to our specifications to be reliable and look factory original. We faithfully reproduced the unique front and rear housings from original Ford engineering drawings, 28 lamination baked on yellow/amber varnished stator and we even apply date codes that correspond with your cars production date. Our alternators also come with all the concours correct hardware you need to install your wire harness and fan/pulley.
1) All of 1970 production had the AUTOLITE teardrop style rear housing and the engineering number and alternator specifications die stamped on the front housing. After the ink was applied the alternator specifications were die stamped over the ink to make it easy to read. We painstakingly copied the original font style exactly to make our die stamps so they look exactly like a production alternator. If your car was produced in 1970 came equipped with a BOSS 302 with or without power steering this is the correct alternator for your car.
2) The red sprayed on ink stripe color identifies this as a 55 amp alternator.
3) If your 1970 car was produced before 11/17/69 you would need a 13 blade cooling fan. After 11/17/69 thru 1971 it would have a 10 blade cooling fan. Both had a yellow zinc plating
5) The correct pulley for this alternator is a single sheave pulley with a yellow zinc plating (also known as zinc dichromate).
6) The wire harness terminal and nut/pulley hardware had a yellow zinc finish in 1970 (concours correct hardware included).
7) Just like the factory alternators we apply a tiny dob of light brown sealer seen on the rear housing between the rear bearing hub and the FLD terminal. This was used to seal a small hole that allowed a pin to be inserted to hold the brushes in place during assembly.
Do you have more concours details you would like to share? Pictures? We don't know everything so please send us an email and we will post your findings and give you the credit.
Questions & Answers:
Q: How do you decide what date codes are right for my car?
A: When you specify your cars production date we take a look at our vintage calendars and select a day one to one and a half months before your car was built. If you would like to specify a date you want your alternator stamped with just let us know in the Special Instructions: box. Note: The stator was manufactured before the alternator itself so the stator inspection date is typically 7-20 days prior to the alternators two final inspection dates.
Q: I don't have the factory door tag decal on my car or I cannot read it, what should I do?
A: If you don't have a door tag to get your cars build date you can calculate an approximate production date by locating date codes on your engine, rear axle or sheet metal parts. You can then enter the dates you found in the Special Instructions: box before adding your alternator to your shopping cart. We will use the date(s) you provide us to calculate a appropriate production date for your alternator. If you don't have any build date information or just don't care please choose that you want a generic date code.
Q: Where are the date codes located on the alternator?
A: Month, day and shift on stator. Shift, month, day, last digit of year on the side of the rear housing.
Q I'm running a NOS mechanical voltage regulator. Will this alternator make my regulator malfunction like the last alternator I purchased at my local Auto parts store?
A: You won't need to buy another voltage regulator. We build our alternators with components that are compatible with vintage mechanical or the new solid state voltage regulators just for this reason. Note: Voltage regulators are the most common reason your battery is not charging or over charging. We suggest you install a new solid state voltage regulator with your new alternator just to be safe.
Still have questions? Give us a call at 510-903-1059