Description: 352-390 +PS +AC Ford Mercury, 427, 427 Cobra Alternator
Model: All 352-390 +PS +AC Ford Mercury,427, 427 Cobra
Production date specific: All 1966 production
Engineering #: C6TF-10300-F
Rear housing type: Round
Output specified on ink stamp: 55 Amps
Actual output: 55 Amps
Fan: 13 blade black painted finish (sold separately)
Pulley: Single sheave (sold separately)
Date Codes: 3 (please indicate your cars production date when ordering)
Warranty: 2 Years (repair or replace)
Returns: 365 Days*
Accuracy Rating: 9.5
Best Repro Available: YES
Our concours correct 1966 Autolite alternators are built with 100% new components manufactured to our specifications to be reliable and look factory original. We faithfully reproduced the unique 1965-66 front and rear housings from original Ford engineering drawings, 28 lamination yellow/amber varnished 55 amp stator and we even apply date codes that correspond with your cars production date. Our alternators also come with all the correct hardware you need to install the wire harness and pulley.
1) 1966 Autolite alternators came from the factory with only one Autolite stamp located on the flat surface of the rear housing next to the adjuster tab. If you don't care about being concours correct we can apply a second Autolite stamp on the rear housing that you may be more visable in your engine compartment. Just tell us you want this second stamp in the special instructions box just above the Add to Cart button.
2) The correct cooling fan has 13 blades and was dipped in semi-gloss black paint.
3) The correct pulley/fan for 427 & 427 Cobra's was the single sheave 3.78" C5AF-10A352-H with a semi-gloss black painted finish. Mid to late production cars more than likely had the C5AF-10A352-H yellow zinc pulley.
4) The correct 352-390 pulley for this alternator is a single sheave pulley with a sprayed semi-gloss black painted finish. Late productions cars could have a yellow zinc pulley (see documented cars below).
Documented Original Mustangs from Bob Perkins Collection:
Black Fan, Black pulley March 9,1966 289 4V Dearborn built 6,000 miles
Black Fan, Yellow zinc pulley April 1,1966 Hipo 289 Dearborn built low mile survivor
Black Fan, Yellow zinc pulley June 6, 1966 289 2V Dearborn built 54 miles
Other documented original fans and pulleys:
Black Fan, Black pulley Feb 19, 1966 289 Hipo San Jose very low mile survivor
5) The correct fan and pulley finish could be Ford Corporate blue paint. Its rare but it happened. See more info here.
4) The Autolite stamp ink color is red indicating this is a 55 Amp alternator.
Do you have more concours details you would like to share? We don't know everything so please send us an email and we will post your findings and give you the credit.
Questions & Answers:
Q: How do you decide what date codes are right for my car?
A: When you specify your cars production date we take a look at our vintage calendars and select a day one to one and a half months before your car was built. If you would like to specify a date you want it stamped with just let us know in the Special Instructions box. Note: The stator was manufactured before the alternator itself so the stator inspection date is typically 7-20 days prior to the alternators two final inspection dates.
Q: I don't have a door tag on my car, what should I do?
A: If you don't have a door tag to get your cars build date you can calculate an approximate date by locating date codes on your engine, rear axle or sheet metal parts and add a one to two months to the latest date. You then enter the date you calculated before adding the alternator to your shopping cart. Shelby owner? You can contact the Shelby Club for more information about yours cars build date or use the previous described method to estimate your Shelby's production date. If you don't have any build date information or just don't care indicate that you want a generic date code.
Q: Where are the date codes located on the alternator?
A: Month, day, year stamp next to the Autolite stamp, month, day and shift on stator, month, day, last digit of year and plant code on rear housing
Q I'm running a mechanical voltage regulator. Will this alternator burn up my regulator like the last alternator I purchased at my local Auto parts store?
A: You won't need to buy another voltage regulator. We build our alternators with components that are compatible with vintage mechanical or the new solid state voltage regulators just for this reason. Note: Voltage regulators are the most common reason your battery is not charging or over charging. We suggest you install a new (solid state preferred) voltage regulator with your new alternator just to be safe.
Still have questions? Give us a call at 510-903-1059