1965-69 Small Block Ford Cast Iron Water Pump Rebuild Kit

$57.00
SKU:
WP1020-SB
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Description: Small Block Ford Cast Iron Water Pump Rebuild Kit
Year: 
1965-69
Model: All
Engine: 289, 302 & 351W
What you receive in the kit: 1 bearing, 1 seal, 1 gasket set, 1 fan hub
Cast iron water pump casting #: C5OE-8505-B, C5AE-8505-K, C6OE-8505-A, C8OE-8505-D, C8AE-8505-J

Jack's Comments:

This is everything you need to rebuild your mid-sixties cast iron small block water pump. The bearing is made with an outside diameter slightly over-sized to achieve a tight press fit. You will need a press and the right press accessories to install the seal without damaging it. No instructions included. Two gaskets are included in each kit.

Check before you buy:
Please check your pumps dimensions against pictures 2 and 3 before ordering. If the seal looks a little different than yours, it is because it's a new & improved longer-lasting double seal version.

Other parts you may need:
-1965-67 Heater hose tubes (castings C5OE-8505-B, C6OE-8505-A)
-1968-70 Heater Hose tubes (castings C8OE-8505-D, C8AE-8505-J)
-Service impeller
-HP impeller

Install Tips:
Tip: Use a little Permatex Form-a-Gasket #1 to help seal the water pump bearing and seal to housing.
Tip: Measure your hub and impeller locations before removing.
Tip: Make sure the seal does not make contact with the impeller when installed.  (see Q/A's below for more information)

Check out this YouTube video that shows a tractor water pump being rebuilt with the same type of bearing and seal.

Questions:
Q: I have an original 351W water pump with a cast iron impeller. When I installed the impeller it bottomed out on the seal just short of the depth that was required. Does the impeller make contact with the seal? What should I do?
A: No, it should never contact the impeller. Your original pump must have had the old style single seal that is thinner than the double seal that is with our kit. At the shop we handle this putting the impeller in a lathe and removing just enough of the cast impeller so it doesn't touch the seal and still installs at the correct depth. This will not affect the impeller performance. It's also OK to not have the shaft install completely into the impeller hub. As long as its at least 3/4 the way in the impeller hub it will work without any problems.
Q: I cracked my housing on my small block Ford water pump when I removed the original bearing. What could I have done to prevent this?
A: Really not much, if the bearing is rusted in place you can try heating the housing hub a little before trying to press it out. The hub on a small block water pump bearing hub is very thin in some areas depending on how it was machined and its not uncommon to have it crack when removing the bearing. NOTE: We always suggest you use a professional to install your bearing kit and always use safety guards when using a press.
Q: I removed the hub without measuring its location first. Can you tell me how to install it again in the right location?
A: The distance from the housing bearing hub to the fan hub face is normally 1 inch.

Concours notes from the internet for late built 1965 Mustangs:
Ford changed from aluminum water pumps to cast iron in June of 1965. Casting number would be C5AE-8505-K or C5OE-8505-B. This required the front timing cover casting number C5OE-6059-A1. Dates are typically about 1-4 weeks before build date, but I have seen a rear axle housing center section which was cast just days before the scheduled build date.

 

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